Friday, June 26, 2009
You are the mobile scenery
Thirty-two million people; The population of Canada in one city. Here is what a tourist card found in the lobby of the Hilton Chongjing said about this Chinese city.
Mountain city Chongqing is well-know the world, the two jiangs blends together, four shore place scenery is this city raises global the first name card, lets the outside intuitively, three-dimensional, dynamic, omni-directional, the short distance, the understanding know Chongqing, demonstrated Chongjing’s best window – the two jiangs swims. Chongqing is a not night of mountain city. Under the night light climbs mountains in the mountain enhances once another’s beauty, the overlapping, produces an inverted image in Yangtze River and Jialing River, if the dream resembles imaginary. Wanders about in the grotesque and gaudy lamp sea, you are the mobile scenery.
My computer’s spell checker is having a melt down. I have no idea what these words mean but it kind of reads like song lyrics. I like the last few lines and I can imagine Bono singing them with earnest.
If the dream resembles imaginary
Wanders about in the grotesque and gaudy lamp sea
you are the mobile scenery
you are the mobile scenery
baby, you are the mobile scenery
and that’s alright
and that’s alright
yeah, yeah
Did somebody change the channel?
Chongjing with a third of a billion people isn't even the capital of the Szechuan province but it is the home of the fiery hot pot. They use and amazing dried pepper that looks like kind of like a cross between a caraway seed and a pepper corn. It is super hot. It makes your tongue sting creating a fizzy sensation when you eat that is wonderful. I went to a hot pot restaurant last night below a super trendy shopping mall, the name of the restaurant translates into, “Grandma’s Bridge”. Nobody spoke English there at all and they had no menu so it took some various hand gestures, smiles and lots of patience but after about forty-five minutes I was diving in. I shied away from the beef tripe and the duck intestines and ate mostly things that I could recognize or at least categorize somewhat. There are actually two hot pots, one has a chicken bone broth which is quite mild and the other is a red beef bone broth with a ton of those hot peppers along with tons of garlic, onions and huge chunks of ginger. Heaven. All of the food arrives raw and thinly sliced on plates and you cook it yourself in the boiling soup at your own table. I made sure I had a big beer to protect me and it was a great treat.
The previous night I had an authentic Sichuan dinner with my contacts in the hotel’s fancy Chinese restaurant. It was interesting and for the first time I tried pickled jellyfish which was crunchy and refreshing. I explained that I love spicy food and Winston had a mischievous look on his face. He promised he would bring me something to try.
He carried around this little plastic bag of goodies while we are shooting. After we were done he gave the bag to me with a smile. He could not speak English but I was told that the bag contained spicy pickled duck neck. It also contained lotus flower root and chicken feet. I tried them all. The lotus flower root was crunch and sweet and looked weirder than it tasted. The spicy duck neck was actually very good but the smell was quite bad. The chicken feet had a good taste but they were too revolting to look at and think about.
Yesterday I rode around in a beat up taxi in a congested city. I ended up in a bar called the Cotton Club but decided not to drink there because it was just a noisy dark box with flashing lights. Today I swam up to the pool bar and had a cocktail at sunset. I love the contrasts of this job. It is unbelievable how much difference a day can make.
I am in a Hilton resort in Sanya, China. It is located on an island on the South China sea directly across from Vietnam. It is at the same latitude as Hawaii. It feels like a Chinese version of Maui. I swam in the sea today and it reminded me of the Caribbean. The drive in reminded me of parts of Indonesia and Jamaica. The palm trees have more of a spiny fern-like look to them than the ones in Hawaii.
A tropical paradise in China? I’m surprised too.
Shanghigh
While photographing the Grand Hyatt Shanghai I stayed in a room at the
top. It was the executive level, floor 85, so I was allowed free
cocktails in the executive lounge during happy hour. From the view
out of my window I could look down on skyscrapers. There was a
lightning rod just outside my window which did not make me feel too
safe. Shanghi is like having thirty downtowns compressed into one
that snakes along both sides of a river.
I had a drink in the hotel bar on the 86th floor which used to be the
highest in the world and was pestered by yet another hooker. The
highest bar in the world is next door in the Park Hyatt on the 92nd
floor. I tried a drink their too. My ears popped as I made it to the
top and enjoyed a twenty-dollar glass of Scotch in a trendy bar that
had white spray painted shoes, phones, and other items hanging by
strings from the ceiling and was lit with red light. I’m not sure
what that was all about.
I did not eat anything too weird in this city although I read about a
restaurant that serves donkey meat. Maybe next time, I’m sticking to
dumplings. I went to a few different German restaurants and it is odd
to see the Chinese girls dressed up like German barmaids. The food
and beer was quite authentic although I did have better in Germany.
On my last day I went and had yet another marathon massage session. I
started out for just one hour but massages are like crack for me so I
had a one and a half hour Japanese Shiatsu massage, where she uses
mostly her thumbs, followed by a half hour foot massage. With a tip
all of that was $60! One of these days I’m going to spend a whole day
in a spa. That would be awesome. I’m sure I could do that in Vietnam
for cheap.
Yesterday I was trying to decide what to do with my day off. I
decided to burn the travel guide book and headed to a market next to
the Science and Technology Museum. I was in search of a kite. I
bought a long green dragon kite with 500 meters of string and
proceeded to fly it in the park next door. I crashed it three times.
Once it landed over the fence of a somewhat ominous looking Communist
government building and I was expecting angry guards with rifles to
ship me off on a train to Siberia but fortunately that never happened.
Some local guy stopped and asked me if I was from Germany, that’s a
new one. He said he had never seen a foreigner fly a kite before, “Oh,
really?” I took my eyes off the wheel for a moment and the kite
crashed into a tree.
Wuhan, China
I was relaxing over a free glass of Champagne in the executive lounge
of one the hotels I had just finished shooting with another one of my
pretty hotel contacts. We were discussing the nature of my job and
she thought I was like James Bond. That made me feel pretty good!
My next assignment in China was the Marco Polo Wuhan. My two hotel
contacts there were Fifi and Cherry X. Very 007.
Wuhan is a secondary city in China. It is three towns that reside
along a river. It struck me as a Chinese version of Baton Rouge, they
even have willow trees like Louisiana and they eat frogs here too.
More on that one later.
One night after dinner I went for a stroll and found an outdoor bar
with a sign that read, “hot and crazy sugar daddy.” I sat at the
round out-door bar and sipped on an Irish whisky while watching a game
of soccer on TV played by remote controlled robots.
My office forgot about my Chinese business visa. It was due to run
out while I was there but the hotel staff were great in helping me
out. During the first visit to the passport office they said it would
take five business days. I wasn’t going to be there that long so that
was a problem. The next time we showed up we arrived in a shiny black
car with the General Managers sharply dresses assistant and a rubber
stamped piece of paper. Voila, I had my visa extension the next day.
The lady at the passport office was handed a bag of hotel gifts from
my trusty hotel contact. I’m told it’s all about relationships here.
I had a day off at the end of the shoot and I spent it with my hotel
contact, Fifi. Who is, sadly, engaged. We took a ferry across the
“famous” Yangze river and went to the East Lake Park for a tour and
some random archery. Next was a museum, lunch, shopping, another trip
through Walmart where I said hello to the sad frogs and bought some
Yack jerky. More shopping. I bought a funky shirt and then we went
for a walk along the Yangtze river. One of her co-workers joined us
and we finished things off with a real Chinese dinner paid for by the
hotel of course.
During lunch I was picking through what looked like a chicken
stir-fry. I thought I was looking at a chicken wing but it was a
chicken head! I flipped the head over with my chopsticks and noticed
the head was severed in half. I’d never seen the brain of a chicken
before. I dug around a bit more and found a chicken foot. I kept on
eating. I told Fifi that most people in Canada could not continue.
She was surprised. I forged ahead and ate too many dumplings.
Dinner was at a large, noisy, crowded but efficient Chinese
restaurant. A wedding was happening while we were eating so that was
interesting. We were served piping hot papayas filled with some kind
of gelatinous goo. We poured coconut syrup on it and I could only
stand three bites of it. I was eating some spicy crab concoction and
thought it was a little unusual. Fifi told me that it was not crab I
was eating, it was toad! I was shocked how her co-worker just pounded
back the toad like she was a starving inmate. At the end of the meal
we had a toast. I was drinking Snow beer and she had a chilled glass
of yogurt.
She commented that I was amazing and that I was a genius due to my
chopstick dexterity. Maybe she’s right, but it’s hard to take anyone
with a yogurt moustache seriously.
The Great Wall – Mutianyu
This is completely insane. How on earth did they build this thing?
These were my thoughts as I rode to the top of what should normally be
a ski run in my shiny orange gondola. There is no easy access point
to the Great Wall of China, it literally lines the mountain tops. It
is almost 9,000 km long! At one point the Wall was guarded by more
than one million men and almost three million people died in the
endeavor making me wonder if it is one of Man’s great accomplishments
or a testament to ancient slavery? I don’t know, but I do know that
manual labor sucks.
The steepest section I went up had more than four hundred steps. I
was counting them. When I finally got to the top I was horrified to
see another entire ridge continuing in the distance. I proceeded and
went through a section that was closed. The Wall is falling apart and
nature is winning. You cannot see this damaged section from the main
tourist area and this struck me as something that the Chinese
government is very big on. Appearances.
It was hot and hazy. After my thirsty three-hour trek I bought a well
earned two-dollar Chinese brew from a weathered Chinese man and sipped
it on the Wall.
I rode down in the same gondola that Clinton did and had a bottle of
cold green tea and an over-priced freshly made chocolate and banana
pancake. I had hired a taxi for the day and we drove back to
civilization we had to stop on a small bridge to allow a farmer and
his heard of sheep to cross.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Tuesday, June 23, 2009
Vietnam Holiday
I took a twenty-seven hour train ride south from Hanoi in order to go surfing in Mui Ne. Luckily the next morning there were waves! I hadn’t surfed in a while and it took some time to relax and get into it. I had a lot of fun and met some people on the water and spent some time with them, including a kick-ass game of mini golf. The next day the water was flat so I headed up to Nah Trang which is a back packer beach area. If I had more time I would have stayed in Hoi An. Everybody is raving about it.
Besides the surfing and the mini-golf I made a list of the things I enjoyed while in these parts.
- meeting beautiful girls from Sweden, England, Holland, Ireland, Holland, and the Netherlands who thought I was 26 or 27.
- Enjoying the Mud Bath. Kind of like floating in a warm chocolate shake
- Going on an island hopping boat tour with snorkeling, a floating bar in the water, a Vietnamese lunch, and finishing with a visit to a surreal aquarium
- Showing up at the outdoor beach bar with three Swedish girls and the people at the bar looking at me like, “who’s this guy?” ha ha
- Watching Wimbledon in a trendy bar with very loud and horrible disco music
- Picking out the live tiger prawns that I wanted to eat and having them grill it for me
- Trying a jam jar. Local vodka, red bull and OJ. One is enough!
Besides the surfing and the mini-golf I made a list of the things I enjoyed while in these parts.
- meeting beautiful girls from Sweden, England, Holland, Ireland, Holland, and the Netherlands who thought I was 26 or 27.
- Enjoying the Mud Bath. Kind of like floating in a warm chocolate shake
- Going on an island hopping boat tour with snorkeling, a floating bar in the water, a Vietnamese lunch, and finishing with a visit to a surreal aquarium
- Showing up at the outdoor beach bar with three Swedish girls and the people at the bar looking at me like, “who’s this guy?” ha ha
- Watching Wimbledon in a trendy bar with very loud and horrible disco music
- Picking out the live tiger prawns that I wanted to eat and having them grill it for me
- Trying a jam jar. Local vodka, red bull and OJ. One is enough!