Kentucky Derby

I got up at five am and began my journey in the dark to check out what is also known as the Run for the Roses. From Newport Tennessee I drove five hours, often in the pouring rain, to reach Churchill Downs in Louisville Kentucky for the opening race of the 2008 Kentucky Derby. I spent about two and a half hours there watching races and ladies with their funny hats before I was off. It was an eight hour drive to my next hotel in Greensboro, North Carolina. I was in five states in one day, Tennessee, Kentucky, West Virginia, Virginia, and North Carolina. People make fun of West Virginia because of the hillbillies and John Denver but it was a truly stunning drive in the late afternoon light. It was like a model train landscape but at full scale. With one minor GPS hick-up I arrived at my hotel in the dark.

The derby is quite the party and fashion show. Ladies, it's all about the hat. Women of all ages were wearing crazy hats. It’s unusual to see Americans dress up. Most of them don’t do it very well. There's one unmistakable thing about the South. The men are men and the women are women. No polar fleece here.

I paid $40 for general admission. This gives you access to the grounds and to view the race you have to go to the infield somewhere near the fence. There is no seating so you camp out picnic style. There is a real class distinction going on too. The infield is the college party crowd while the other areas are people who have money or are pretending that they do.

The main reason I went was to try a real Mint Julep. It was invented there. It sounds like a girly drink but it’s bourbon, some sugar water and mint over shaved ice. A few of those and some warm Kentucky sun and you have quite the party. They go down easy. I was analyzing the taste so that I can make a few when I get home. Not too much bourbon, not too sweet, and not too much mint. It’s sort of an equal mixing of all three.

I actually felt pretty good last night when I got in. The drive wasn’t too bad except the last half hour felt like I was driving in a video game. I woke up today and my body felt like a bag of sand.

It’s another three hour drive to my next hotel tomorrow in Greenville, North Carolina.